The ongoing trade tensions between the United States and China are leaving a noticeable mark on Beijing’s culinary scene, forcing many restaurants to rethink their menus.
At Kunyuan restaurant, owner Geng Xiaoyun had to remove his signature salt-baked chicken feet—nicknamed “phoenix talons”—after a 30% price hike caused by tariffs. Imported from the U.S., the chicken feet were a point of pride for Xiaoyun, who insists they are of superior quality. “American chicken feet are so beautiful,” he lamented. “They’re spongy, so they taste great. Chinese feet just aren’t as good.”
The tariffs have disrupted the supply of American agricultural goods, and many Beijing eateries are now scrambling to find alternatives. At Home Plate, a popular American-style barbecue joint, U.S. beef has disappeared from the menu. In its place? Australian beef, which carries no duty under the China-Australia Free Trade Agreement.
“It’s a shame we’re in a trade war,” said Liu Li, a beef supplier at Sanyuanli market. “U.S. beef is fattier and tastier, but the price is now 50% higher than before. It’s just too much.”
Restaurants are turning to other sources, like Brazil or Russia, for items like chicken feet, but many, including Xiaoyun, say the substitutes don’t measure up.
As businesses adjust, the broader impact of the trade war continues to unfold. For now, the “Great American” burger in China comes with an Aussie accent—and for some dishes, like Xiaoyun’s beloved phoenix talons, there may be no real replacement.
“I believe the price of American chicken feet will come back down,” he said, “as long as the world’s political climate settles down.”
